As we are reviving our ancient and traditional culture, “Ikkat” is also one of them. The “Ikkat” is from Indonesian word, which simply means the dyeing techniques of yarn.
Ikkat, sarees are mainly weaved in large scale in “Pochampalli”, near Hyderabad capital of Andhra Pradesh.
It is probably one of the most flourishing centers of modern handloom industry with the entire basic infrastructure.
The weavers in pochampalli are basically Hindus of the Padmasali or Devang community. These weavers produce Ikkat textiles with geometrical designs and also interfusing modern designs.
These sarees are in high demand in India and abroad. Due to its use of modern synthetic colours which are very cheaper considering the vegetable extract colours, hence the finish goods also have good production with lesser price and also getting chance to make more creative stuffs.
The dyeing technique consist three patterns of dyeing, firstly wrap is dyed in different colours, secondly, wrap is of one colour and weft is of different colours, and thirdly, wrap and weft both are colored, so that to give an vibrant design and multiple colored fabric.
The vital thing in weaving an Ikkat saree is the dyeing process, which enables to give its ultimate effect.
All the threads of yarn are accumulated in the form of bundles and it is dyed in different colours, restricting not to spill the colour to each other.
The bundles are covered with the help of wax, wrapped tightly with thread or any other dye-resistant material to prevent unwanted dye permeation.
To resist dye procedure is repeated depending on the coloration desired of wrap bundle.
For multiple colorations requires multiple dyeing and retying the yarn.
Some styles of Ikkat favor a blurred appearance.
The skill lies in the weaver acting essentially as selective heddle who selectively, manually picks up wrap threads before passing the shuttle through the required shade.
These patterns can be created vertically, horizontal or diagonal in dimensions.
After dyeing the yarn is put to dry before stinging in the loom. Some process is applied in dyeing weft of the fabric.
The weaving portion is not so complicated, but dyeing needs to much caution and expertise.
Where the wrap and weft both are differently colored it is called double Ikkat and the price goes up due to elaboration of multiple colors in it.